Herringbone Flooring

Frequently asked questions

What should you plan for with a herringbone floor?

Herringbone needs a little more planning than a standard straight-plank floor. It takes more material and more time to lay, so allow for both when working out your budget. Order 10 to 15% more than your room measurement to account for the extra cuts and waste around the edges. Fitting is slower and more precise too, which usually means a higher installation cost per square metre.

Orientation matters just as much as quantity. A single block laid the wrong way round will stand out, so dry-lay the first two rows from the room’s centre line before fixing anything in place. In a small or awkwardly shaped room, a lighter, quieter finish can stop the pattern feeling too busy. Our guide to laying herringbone flooring explains the set-out process step by step.

What goes underneath a herringbone floor?

Whatever type of flooring you choose, the subfloor must be clean, dry and, most importantly, level. Dips and uneven areas tend to show more clearly beneath herringbone because the joints run in two directions, making it easier to spit movement across the blocks.

What goes underneath depends on the floor’s construction. Solid parquet is normally glued to screed or plywood and must be left to acclimatise in the room before fitting. Engineered herringbone can usually be glued down or floated, while laminate and click LVT herringbone are floating floors and need a suitable underlay. Remember to leave the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap around walls, pipes and other fixed objects.

Glue-down LVT bonds directly to a properly prepared subfloor, so it does not require underlay. Floating floors laid over concrete may also need a damp-proof membrane. Explore our underlay range to find the right option for your floor.

What does herringbone flooring cost?

The cost of herringbone flooring varies considerably because the pattern is available in several different materials. At Factory Direct Flooring, vinyl roll and laminate herringbone generally sit at the more affordable end of the range, at around £10 to £20 per square metre. LVT and engineered wood typically cost between £20 and £30, while solid parquet can reach £50 to £60 per square metre.

It is worth pricing the whole job rather than focusing only on the headline cost per square metre. You will usually need 10 to 15% more flooring than the room measurement to cover cutting waste, and fitting is likely to cost more because the pattern takes longer to lay. If you are working with a tighter budget, herringbone laminate is one of the most affordable ways to get the look.

Which type of herringbone flooring is best?

There is no single best option; the right choice depends on where the floor is going and how you need it to perform.

Solid parquet can last for generations and be sanded several times, but it responds to changes in temperature and humidity. That makes it unsuitable for bathrooms and many rooms with underfloor heating. Engineered herringbone is a versatile alternative. Its real-wood wear layer gives you the natural finish of timber, while the layered core provides greater stability and makes many products suitable for underfloor heating.

Laminate herringbone is an affordable choice for dry rooms. In bathrooms and other areas where water resistance is important, herringbone LVT is usually the safer option, provided the particular product is approved for the space. For a living room or hallway, consider engineered wood. In a kitchen, engineered wood or LVT can both work well.

Which rooms suit herringbone flooring best?

Herringbone can make a room feel larger, which is one reason it works particularly well in hallways and reception rooms. The zigzag pattern draws the eye diagonally rather than in a single straight line, helping a narrow space feel wider. Lighter finishes can strengthen this effect, while darker colours tend to make a room feel more enclosed.

The direction of the pattern also makes a difference. Run the points down the length of the room to emphasise its length, or across the room to make it appear wider. Scale matters too: large blocks can overwhelm a very small room, so choose a size that feels in proportion to the space. Our guide to which direction to lay your flooring will help you plan the layout.

How do you choose a timeless herringbone floor?

Herringbone is a relatively safe choice if you want a floor with lasting appeal. The pattern has been used in European interiors for centuries and has proved far more enduring than many short-lived colour and finish trends.

It is usually the colour and sheen that date a floor rather than the herringbone layout itself. A cool grey or high-gloss finish may feel tied to a particular trend, while natural oak tones and matt or brushed surfaces tend to age more gracefully. If longevity matters, choose a warm, natural shade with a low-sheen finish. Browse our modern herringbone range, then order free samples to see how your preferred colours look in the room’s natural and artificial light.